The Fensen puon is one of the traditional wrap-around skirts (puonbi) worn by Hmar women. It is particularly associated with elderly women, who wore it during community gatherings, dances, and festivals. In earlier times, during the grand Sikpuiruoi festival, women would wear the Fensen puon while performing the Sikpui Lam (Sikpui Dance).
Its deep hues and elegant simplicity added to the dancers’ beauty as they moved in rhythm to the songs of joy and thanksgiving. Oral accounts tell that when women danced gracefully in Fensen, their flowing movements and the sheen of the cloth would captivate onlookers, symbolizing both dignity and charm.
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| Fensen Puon |
Design and Technical Features of Fensen Puon
The Fensen is characterized by a deep maroon base accentuated with two parallel green horizontal stripes near the middle portion of the cloth. It is traditionally woven on a back-strap loom, using handspun cotton yarns. The weave is tight and smooth, with an even texture that enhances its durability and comfort. The green bands are created using the supplementary weft technique, maintaining symmetry and balance across the textile. Its minimalist yet refined colour palette reflects restraint and grace, qualities admired in mature Hmar women.
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The use of natural dyes - particularly red from tree bark and green from plant pigments - demonstrates the weavers’ intimate knowledge of nature and their craftsmanship in producing rich, lasting colours.
Cultural Significance
Traditionally, Fensen puon was worn by older women during rituals, ceremonies, and dances. It symbolized modesty, wisdom, and feminine grace, representing the dignity of age and experience. During the Sikpuiruoi festival, the Fensen became a visual emblem of joy and unity- its rhythmic patterns reflecting the harmony of the dance and the spirit of the celebration.
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Even today, Fensen continues to hold cultural importance among the Hmar people, representing continuity, tradition, and the timeless beauty of womanhood.
